Last week's blog was on creating a lining pattern for a skirt with a slit, this week it's on to the sewing part.
1. Start with marking your lining and main fabric pieces as shown below. The seam allowance for this pattern is 1.5cm so I have drawn the stitching line 1.5cm away from the raw edge of the slit opening, as shown. Where these lines intersect make a dot (shown in red below), these dots are very important for sewing accurately. I also attached a little interfacing over the dots to reinforce this area. Note that I have already hemmed my lining here.
2. Sew the two lining pieces together up to the top dot. I like to use a smaller stitch length up to the dot to reinforce this area. Repeat this for the main fabric piece also.
3. Press the seams open on both the main fabric and lining fabric. The dots are marked in black below. These are really important for accurate sewing. If you need to re-mark these dots do so now. Effectively you are drawing on the stitching lines from the raw edges of the fabric. Where the lines intersect is where the dots will go. See blow.
4. Place the two pieces wrong sides together, as it will be when inside the skirt/dress when worn. Line up the top dot on the main fabric with the top dot on the lining fabric.
5. Keeping the top dots lined up manipulate the lining fabric so that the right side is facing the right side of the fabric on the slit opening. The lining fabric needs to follow the same angle as the top of the slip opening and the second dots also need to line up. Pin as shown below. Do not pin to the main part of the skirt or dress, just the slit opening section and lining.
6. Move the main fabric out of the way from underneath and sew from the top dot to the second dot. Use smaller stitches and back tack here.
7. When you get to the second dot, insert the needle and lift the presser foot. With the needle still inserted take a pair of sharp scissors and snip to the needle.
8. Snipping here will allow you to manipulate the lining fabric so that the raw edges can be lined up with the main fabric vent opening. Then sew to the bottom.
9. Repeat for the other side.
10. Give the garment a good press.
And there you have a skirt or dress slit with lining!