Fabric Descriptors Explained
How we describe the fabrics we sell, so you know what to expect before it arrives. Every fabric listing uses these descriptors.
Fabric weight
Fabric weight is measured in grams per square metre (GSM), or in America ounces per square yard. At Sewing Gem we use GSM: how much a square metre of the fabric weighs. As a general rule:
Light
110 GSM and under
Chiffon, voile, crepes.
Light to medium
110–150 GSM
Lightweight cotton lawn, rayon, viscose.
Medium
150–220 GSM
Tencel, knits, linen, craft cotton.
Medium to heavy
220–320 GSM
Lightweight denim, heavy linen.
Heavy
320 GSM and over
Denim, heavy cotton twill, wool.
Drape
Drape is a fabric’s ability to fall and create wavy folds. Softness versus stiffness is the key factor: the stiffer the fabric, the less drape it has. Soft fabric drapes close to the body in wavy folds; stiff fabric hangs away from the body. Highly twisted, heavy or coarse yarns make for stiffer fabric. We use five terms:
Lots of drape
Very soft, often lightweight fabrics such as rayon, viscose and silks.
Fair amount of drape
Lightweight cottons such as cotton lawn, chambray and voile.
Medium drape
Medium weight cottons and linens.
A little drape
Thicker linens and cottons.
Very little drape
Denim and thick twill.
Handle
The handle of a fabric is how it feels: how stiff, hard or rough it is versus limp, soft or smooth.
Smooth, soft handle
Soft bamboo jersey, soft voile, silk.
Medium handle
Somewhere between the two, for example cotton and linen.
Stiff, rough handle
Denim, canvas, heavy cotton twill.
Opacity
Lighter weight fabrics are often more transparent. We classify every fabric as one of:
Transparent
Very see-through. Put your hand underneath and you would see a complete outline.
Translucent
Slightly transparent. You get a hint of what’s behind it, but can’t see it clearly.
Opaque
You can’t see through this fabric.
Weave (woven fabrics)
A number of weaves are used to construct woven fabric, including plain, basket, twill, satin, jacquard, dobby, loop pile and velvet. GSM gives one part of the picture; how loose or dense the weave is matters too. Where possible we list the weave used.
Finishing
Finishes are applied to enhance the look and feel of a fabric or improve its function, and may include embossing, pleating, puckering and embroidery. Where possible this is listed in the fabric description.
If you are in any doubt, request a fabric sample by emailing support@sewinggem.com.
