Creating A Lining Pattern For A Skirt Slit

I've just made the B6453. The pattern comes with facing, but I prefer my garments to be lined. The skirt has a back slit so I thought I'd show you how I created a lining pattern for the slit in the back of the skirt.

Whilst I am here I wanted to also share this great book that I've found really helpful for creating lining patterns. It's definitely worth adding to your library if you like to create your own lined patterns. 


1. Take the original pattern with slit. The red dotted line shows the stitching line and the fold line is where the slit will fold back.

2. Fold back the pattern down the stitching line and slit fold line. I am using red pattern weights to hold the pattern down.
3. Using the edge of the slit that has been folded inwards, use a ruler to mark the seam allowance from the edge of the slit (marked in red on the image below). This pattern has a 1.5cm seam allowance so I marked 1.5cm from the edge of the slit.
4. Then place a new piece of pattern paper over the top.
5. Then copy the new outline of the pattern (the red line).
6. You will then need to add seam allowances on to the line that you have just drawn. In this case 1.5cm.
When removed the lining pattern should look like this. The red notches marked on the stitching line below are important markings on the pattern. Don't forget these.
You will also need to add 0.5cm above the vent. Making the lining 0.5cm longer than the main fabric reduces pulling and increases movement when wearing the garment. Follow the next few steps to see how I did this, however adding 0.5cm to the top of the pattern works just as well.
7. Draw a horizontal line above the slit.
8. Cut across the line leaving a hinge on the far right. Spread the pattern by 0.5cm and fill with pattern paper underneath.
9. You will also need to reduct the length of the lining at the hem. My hem was 3.5cm on the main fabric so I reduced the lining hem by 2.5cm.
Next week I'll cover the sewing, which can be a bit fiddly.

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